" Suit : ‘Holland&Sherry’ Summer in the city -
Tailorable WINE LABEL”
“Shirt : ‘Royal Navy Tailor’ linen&cotton - Tailorable Blue LABEL”
“Silk Tie by Franco Minnuci x Tailorable (Limited edition) ”"Shoes by Carmina ”-For : C.J.H
I want to start an ad campaign, like the one Converse has plastered all over my city, with the catchphrase “Poplins Are Boring.” Poplin, for those unfamiliar, is a type of plain weave, where each lengthwise yarn passes over each crosswise yarn – over and under, over and under, and so on. The stuff is very smooth, very flat, and very, very boring. You can get an up-close view of it at Mr. Porter.
I think I wear poplin maybe once every few years, when I have to go to a wedding or something. Other than that, I prefer end-on-ends or twills, where you get a bit more variegation in color or texture. Not enough for anyone else to really notice, but enough for me to care. I’ve also been wearing the following a lot this summer:
DON’T FORGET SNEAKERS
by S. Charlie Weyman
A good wardrobe is a well-rounded wardrobe. Just as great-looking coat and tie can enhance a night on the town, a pair of slim jeans and a casual jacket give you another reason to enjoy a day at the park. Your shoe wardrobe should cover just as much ground. Oxfords with suits, derbys with sport coats, loafers and chukkas with classic weekend wear, and sneakers with anything truly casual.
Sneakers have gotten a bad rap in some circles. The word brings to mind those ratty running shoes people wear for everyday walking. The last decade, however, has reinvented the sneaker. Gone are the big swooshes and tri-stripes of sport shoes, and the bright colors of fashionable Japanese sneakers in the ‘90s. Instead, the new sneakers are minimalist and uncomplicated, following the design philosophy of the architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, “less is more.”
I don’t wear sandals, but if I did, I’d want to get mine from Barbara Shaum. Shaum is something of a legend in the trade. She moved to NYC in 1951, having just come from a small town in central Pennsylvania, and picked up the leatherworking craft by apprenticing for a sandal maker named Menalkas Duncan. Three years later, in 1954, she opened her own leather goods shop in the East Village, and has been there ever since. In fact, her history there goes back so far that she was the first woman to ever be allowed in McSorley’s — the oldest bar in America, and one that used to disallow women from entry until they were sued in the 1960s under the Civil Rights Act for discrimination.
Sandals are one of the few kinds of footwear that can actually be handmade. Most Western shoes require a machine of some kind. So, even if the welting is done by hand (which is rare), the uppers are almost always sewn together by machine. Sandals on the other hand, can be produced from nothing but simple tools. First a pattern is cut from a tracing of the customer’s foot, and from that come the leather parts that form the base of the shoe. That base needs to be shaped, so the leather is soaked and then hand molded, before being laid out to dry. The leather straps are then cut, dyed, and attached to the sole through a series of holes and ties, depending on the design. Finally, the edges are sanded down and burnished for a finished look.
New York time……
Trunkshow today and tomorow
Salvatore Ambrosi and Mark Cho.